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  Great Himalayan National Park  
THE UNIQUE ECOLOGICAL ASPECTS OF THE WESTERN HIMALAYA LED TO THE CREATION OF THE GREAT HIMALAYAN NATIONAL PARK (GHNP) IN THE KULLU DISTRICT OF INDIA'S MOUNTAIN STATE OF HIMACHAL PRADESH. THESE FEATURES INCLUDE BIODIVERSITY, SPARSE HUMAN POPULATIONS, INACCESSIBILITY, LITTLE TOURISM, AND A LOCAL ECONOMY BASED ON TRADITIONAL LIVELIHOODS.
The Great Himalayan National Park, is undoubtedly the most pristine mountain landscape in the Western Himalayas… and perhaps the planet. From the Andes to Nepal and Tibet, to the mountains of Eastern Europe and Western China - the pressures of a growing human population have left the landscape - even so-called 'national parks' - overgrazed, denuded of timber, devoid of wildlife and covered with signs of animals and their shepherds. Ironically, here in India, home to over a billion people, it is still possible to find vast virgin forests and endless fields of wildflowers and ranges of un-named, unclimbed summits. Blue sheep, Himalayan Thar, even bear and snow leopard abound.

BIOGEOGRAPHY

The GHNP is at the junction of world's two major faunal regions: the oriental to the south and palaearctic to the north. The temperate forest flora-fauna of GHNP represents the western most extension of the Sino-Japanese Region. The high altitude ecosystem of the Northwest Himalaya has common plant elements with the adjacent Western and Central Asiatic region. As a result of its 4,100m elevation range the Park has a diversity of zones with their representative flora and fauna, such as alpine, glacial, temperate, and sub tropical forests. These biogeographic elements are result of geological evolution of Himalaya which continues today from the action of plate tectonics and continental drift. Over 100 million years ago, the Indian sub-continent broke off from the large, southern landmass, Gondwanaland and moved north. It eventually slammed into the northern land mass, Laurasia, and formed the gigantic folded mountains of the Himalaya. Due to this union of Gondwanaland and Asiatic landmasses, exchange of flora and fauna was possible and this ultimately led to the unique biogeographical features in the region

UNEXPLORED REGION OF THE WORLD

Its remote location has thus far spared the Park many of the problems that have affected natural ecosystems elsewhere in India. The occurrence of temperate and alpine ecosystems in a geographically compact area make GHNP the most significant and biggest conservation unit in the Western Himalayas. This status further protects the relatively inaccessible rugged terrain which represents the ecology, geology, and biota characteristic of the North-West Himalayas.

The boundaries of GHNP are contiguous with the Pin Valley National Park in Trans-Himalaya, the Rupi-Bhawa Wildlife Sanctuary in Sutlej watershed, and the Kanawar Wildlife Sanctuary. Together the varied wildlife habitats of these protected areas support the full range of Western Himalayan biodiversity, from tropical to alpine and Tibetan. Thus, the Park is a crucial protected area because it connects other islands of biodiversity. This increases the availability of migration routes between protected areas which is essential for the survival of many animals.

Among the large mammals that visitors may encounter, there are several species of herbivores that are characteristic of the Park. The Goral (Naemorhedus goral), a small goat-antelope is found in the lower forests; the Himalayan Tahr (Hemitragus jemlahicus) in the higher forests, and above the tree-line the Bharal, or Blue Sheep (Pseudois nayaur). These mammals are the prey for Leopards (in the forest zone) and Snow Leopards (above tree-line). Himalayan Black Bears inhabit the forests, while Asiatic brown Bears occur on the alpine meadows.
Among birds, the Park is well known as the most important locality in India
      for the endangered & most beautiful Western Tragopan
Four other species of pheasant occur in or adjacent to the Park, the one most likely to be seen by visitors is the Himalayan Monalan abundant bird in the higher forests, although rather shy. Raptors are also a prominent feature of the Park, with Lammergeiers, Himalayan Griffon Vultures, and Golden Eagles being seen regularly. A great variety of other birds occurs, some of which reach their western limit in the Park.

The flora of GHNP shows affinities with Mediterranean, Tibetan, and the Peninsular Indian region. For example, species of Valerians, Dactylorhiza, Yew, and Leycesteria are typical taxa which extend to Afghanistan and west China. Other affinities that are met with here are in form of buckthorn (Hippophae) of palaearctic region; Cedar trees, herbaceous Violets, and grasses such as Poa of Mediterranean region; and spurge (Euphorbia) shrubs of Peninsular India. In addition, GHNP has a number of endemic species of Himalayas, for example several species of balsams (Impatiens), species of Androsace, Hedysarum, Draba (Whitlow grass),etc.

The indigenous culture of the mountain villages, adjacent to the Park, also offer unique experiences for the traveler. Isolated for centuries from the large urban centers, these remote hamlets developed a highly distinctive culture, based on the worship of local deities (devta) which are celebrated in numerous local, regional and national festivals. From the characteristic architecture of the houses and temples, and the folk wood carvings that decorate them, to the silver jewelry and woven wool shawls and blankets, there is a great range of local crafts to see.
Unexplored Jiwanal-Parvati Trek in GHNP and crossing Pin valley national
      park to enter in remote Spiti region To blaze a new trai in search of Western
      trgopan and butterfly zone only found in GHNP park and snow leopard in pin
      valley national park

GHNP is a gift from the people of India to the people of the world. It is a tangible symbol of their effort to protect a dwindling and unique environment for posterity.

One moves through many zones of the forest: from lush lowlands up into the arid and cold higher elevations. Nature is constantly changing and reminding you of how life adapts at so many levels. The trek, at times, is very strenuous. If you're going to do this one, make sure you work out for two months in advance to get in shape.Your breath and stamina must be strong. Trekking Phanchi Galu is
hard work but the rewards and visions will become part of your great life memories.

The unique ecological aspects of the Western Himalaya led to the creation of the Great Himalayan National Park (GHNP) in the Kullu district of India's mountain state of Himachal Pradesh. These features include biodiversity, sparse human populations, inaccessibility, little tourism, and a local economy based on traditional livelihoods.

 
FIRST STAGE
Trek itinerary from Jiwa Nala to Parvarti River Valley
A seven-day, very strenuous, dramatic hike crossing the mountain passes at Kandi Galu (3627m), and Phangchi Galu (4636m). Incredible vistas. Must be in excellent physical condition as very demanding with elevation ascent of 2000 meters and 1500 meters descent in one day (total up-down, 3,500 m in one day!).
 
Itinerary
Day 1 : Delhi - Kullu - Tirthan Valley
Arrive Aut and transfer to Shoja through the scenic Tirthan valley. A confluence of Parvati & Tirthan Rivers at Larji offer magnificent fishing beats. After crossing a small but busy town of Banjar, the road winds through terraced field & fruit orchards. Streams joining the river at Jibhi & Giyagi offer spectacular landscapes dotted with small grain grinding huts. After Giyagi, the access to Shoja winds through thick forests of alpine trees, which provide an untouched Habitat to various species of flora & fauna. On arrival at Shoja, the landscape
opens up into beautiful terraced fields followed by rolling meadows of wild flowers. Enjoy the rest of the day at leisure at the camp. One can explore the surroundings on bear trail, pheasant ridge or village trail
Day 2 : Shoja-Neuli (1650m) to Bhagi Kashahri(2600m)
Morning visit to Manu Temple This temple is situated to the north- east of Sainj. It is built in pagoda style and is about 1200 years old. The elaborate Woodcarvings on it are perhaps the best in the valley.(2200 m). Evening at village school site. Moderate ascent.
Distance: 23 kms.
Day 3 : Bhagi Kashahri to Subli (3300m)
Strenuous ascent in early morning (3600 m). Pass through Kandi Galu notch (3627m). Distance 17 kms. The majority of the buildings in the Ecozone of GHNP are made of wood, stone, and mud in the traditional hill style and blend in well with the environment. They typically have expansive upstairs verandahs with arched facades and slate roofs. Many also have intricate external carvings. This is one of the few places left in the region where the majority of buildings are made in the traditional style.
Day 4 : Subli to Dwada (3150m).
Relatively easy hike passing through birch forests and meadows. Distance 6 kms.
Day 5 : Rest Day at Dwada
Beautiful meadow surrounded by steep mountain valleys and flowing Jiwanal River. Peaceful and good place to rest after long hike from Subli.
Day 6 : Rest Day Dwada
Day hike up to Surtu Glacial Pond in Khandedhar with dramatic mountain backdrops. Opportunities for wildlife observation including Brown Bear, Snow Leopard, etc. Distance: 20 kms. round trip.
Day 7: Dwada to Chippi (3550m):
Very strenuous day. Crossing Phangchi Galu Pass (4636 m) below Khandedhar into Parvarti Valley. Continuous steep ascent over rock scree, boulders, and very narrow paths into high alpine meadows, then higher lichen environments. Can be cold and windy. Descent from Phangchi Galu can have deep snow pack and should be done with great care as steep drops and potentially very dangerous. Sublime peace at the higher elevations. Stressful on knees coming down! Distance: 23 kms.
Day 8: Chippi to Pulga:
Easier descent back into forests and meadows, ending at village of Pulga. Distance: 18 kms.
SECOND STAGE
Crossing the Pin Parvati Pass (5319 meters altitude)
Main attractions: Village house architecture; tree deities; old Forest Rest House at Pulga; panoramic views; alpine and sub-alpine pastures; huge glacial structures at Man-Talai onwards; about 7 to 8 kms. long stretch of snow fields on the Pass; changing vegetation and distinct bird, mammal, butterfly life.
There are more than 20 species of animals and birds in the Park. This park is specially renowned for the protection of endangered Snow-Leopard, the estimated population of which is about twelve
 
Day 9 : Pulga (1100 m) to Barsheni (2150 m)
by road Trek from Barsheni to Khirganga (2960 m) Distance: 10 kms. A busy trekking route. The sulfur springs at Khirganga are very famous in the area. A number of Sadhus (holy men, hermits) can be seen camping in the vicinity of the springs.
Day 10 : Khirganga-Tunda Bhuj (3285 m) to Thakur Kuan
Trek is less disturbed, goes through conifer forests, open meadows and birch forests. The journey may be broken in two days, up to Tunda Bhuj (area with high altitude birch forests) in one day and then from there to Thakur Kuan, the next day. Distance: 19 kms
Day 11: Thakur Kuan to Pandupul (3700 m) to Mantalai (4200 m):
This part of trek is above tree line in high altitude meadows full of medicinal herbs, alpine grasses, bees and butterflies during summer season. It should be done in two days: up to Pandupul in one day and next day to Mantalai. Distance: 20 kms.
Day 12: Mantalai to Pin Parvati Pass (5319m) to base of the snow field in Pin
     Valley 4075 m
This is the most strenuous part of the Pin Parvati Pass trek. It involves a steep ascent from Mantalai to the Pass and then a descent into the Pin valley. About six to seven kms trek is on snow fields filled with potentially dangerous crevices. Weather may change any time at the Pass.
Distance: 14 kms .
Day 13 : Pin Valley
Rest day at the base of Pass in Pin Valley
Day 14: Base of the snow field in Pin Valley to Tariya or near Mud
Trek through arid zone of the cold desert in Pin Valley. The arduous part of the trek is over, but watch out for crossing of streams on the way. This part of trek can be done in two days with a stopover in between. Distance: 11 kms.
Day 15 : Tariya/Mud to Maling road head onwards by road to Kaza (3600 m)
Mud is the first village to come by. The trekker may hire a pony or one of the famous Chamurti bred Tibetan horses to ride up to the roadhead. Distance: 15 kms.
Total Distance: 90 kms.

Day 16 : onward new Trails & Excursions in remote Spiti valley
The valley is renowned for being Spiti's main stronghold of Nyingmapa Buddhists.

There are six monasteries in the valley and the largest and most important gompa within the valley is the Kungri gompa, which is 600 years old. It is located three kilometres away from Gulling. It has some 60 resident lamas. The inner walls are adorned with silk paintings of various Buddhist deities. Huge statues also compliment the interiors and there are over 300 volumes of the sacred Tibetan texts, Kenjur and Tenjur preserved carefully in white muslin.

The ancient Tabo and Ki monasteries dating back to 1000 A.D, both built by the famous Tibetan translator, Ringchen Zangpo should be visited.

Tabo Gompa has been selected as the place of retirement for the current Dalai Lama, so it is one of the most important monasteries among Tibetan Buddhists. A bus leaves Kaza at 7 a.m. everyday and transports visitors to Tabo located two hours away for Rs. 30/-. A taxi would cost Rs. 1,000/-. The complex houses a choskhor (a complex of nine temples, all built between the 10th and 16th century). The main Tsuglhakhang assembly hall within the shrine has 33 Boddhisattva statues and a unique four-sided statue of Sarvarvid Vairocana, one of the five Dhyani Buddhas.

The Ki Gompa is located 14 km. from Kaza and is the oldest and largest gompa in Spiti. It is famous for its collection of ancient texts. It was invaded three times in the 19th century by Ladhakis, Dogras and Sikhs, and affected by an earthquake in 1975. No photography is permitted within the gompa.

'Chortens' are pyramidal structures with shrines dedicated to Guru Padmasambhava, the patron saint of Tibet. Such chortens can be seen in many places.

Sapna Lake near Manerang Pass is a preferred tourist spot where one can also sight several water birds.

Savour thukpa, the delicious Tibetan noodle soup!
Day 17 : Kaza - Manali
Drive from Kaza to Manali over the Kunzum La (4550 Mts.).
Day 18: Manali - Nalagarh Drive from Manali to Nalagarh.
Upon arrival at Nalagarh, transfer to hotel. Overnight at Hotel.
Day 19: Leave Delhi
Depart Delhi for onward destination.