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Great Himalayan National Park |
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| THE UNIQUE ECOLOGICAL ASPECTS OF THE WESTERN
HIMALAYA LED TO THE CREATION OF THE GREAT HIMALAYAN NATIONAL
PARK (GHNP) IN THE KULLU DISTRICT OF INDIA'S MOUNTAIN STATE
OF HIMACHAL PRADESH. THESE FEATURES INCLUDE BIODIVERSITY, SPARSE
HUMAN POPULATIONS, INACCESSIBILITY, LITTLE TOURISM, AND A LOCAL
ECONOMY BASED ON TRADITIONAL LIVELIHOODS. |
| The Great Himalayan National Park, is
undoubtedly the most pristine mountain landscape in the Western
Himalayas… and perhaps the planet. From the Andes to
Nepal and Tibet, to the mountains of Eastern Europe and Western
China - the pressures of a growing human population have left
the landscape - even so-called 'national parks' - overgrazed,
denuded of timber, devoid of wildlife and covered with signs
of animals and their shepherds. Ironically, here in India, home
to over a billion people, it is still possible to find vast
virgin forests and endless fields of wildflowers and ranges
of un-named, unclimbed summits. Blue sheep, Himalayan Thar,
even bear and snow leopard abound.
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BIOGEOGRAPHY
The GHNP is at the junction of world's two major faunal regions:
the oriental to the south and palaearctic to the north. The
temperate forest flora-fauna of GHNP represents the western
most extension of the Sino-Japanese Region. The high altitude
ecosystem of the Northwest Himalaya has common plant elements
with the adjacent Western and Central Asiatic region. As a result
of its 4,100m elevation range the Park has a diversity of zones
with their representative flora and fauna, such as alpine, glacial,
temperate, and sub tropical forests. These biogeographic elements
are result of geological evolution of Himalaya which continues
today from the action of plate tectonics and continental drift.
Over 100 million years ago, the Indian sub-continent broke off
from the large, southern landmass, Gondwanaland and moved north.
It eventually slammed into the northern land mass, Laurasia,
and formed the gigantic folded mountains of the Himalaya. Due
to this union of Gondwanaland and Asiatic landmasses, exchange
of flora and fauna was possible and this ultimately led to the
unique biogeographical features in the region
UNEXPLORED
REGION OF THE WORLD
Its remote location has thus far spared the Park many of the
problems that have affected natural ecosystems elsewhere in
India. The occurrence of temperate and alpine ecosystems in
a geographically compact area make GHNP the most significant
and biggest conservation unit in the Western Himalayas. This
status further protects the relatively inaccessible rugged terrain
which represents the ecology, geology, and biota characteristic
of the North-West Himalayas.
The boundaries of GHNP are contiguous with the Pin Valley National
Park in Trans-Himalaya, the Rupi-Bhawa Wildlife Sanctuary in
Sutlej watershed, and the Kanawar Wildlife Sanctuary. Together
the varied wildlife habitats of these protected areas support
the full range of Western Himalayan biodiversity, from tropical
to alpine and Tibetan. Thus, the Park is a crucial protected
area because it connects other islands of biodiversity. This
increases the availability of migration routes between protected
areas which is essential for the survival of many animals.
Among the large mammals that visitors may encounter, there are
several species of herbivores that are characteristic of the
Park. The Goral (Naemorhedus goral), a small goat-antelope is
found in the lower forests; the Himalayan Tahr (Hemitragus jemlahicus)
in the higher forests, and above the tree-line the Bharal, or
Blue Sheep (Pseudois nayaur). These mammals are the prey for
Leopards (in the forest zone) and Snow Leopards (above tree-line).
Himalayan Black Bears inhabit the forests, while Asiatic brown
Bears occur on the alpine meadows. |
Among
birds, the Park is well known as the most important locality
in India for the
endangered & most beautiful Western Tragopan |
Four other species of pheasant occur in
or adjacent to the Park, the one most likely to be seen by visitors
is the Himalayan Monalan abundant bird in the higher forests,
although rather shy. Raptors are also a prominent feature of
the Park, with Lammergeiers, Himalayan Griffon Vultures, and
Golden Eagles being seen regularly. A great variety of other
birds occurs, some of which reach their western limit in the
Park.
The flora of GHNP shows affinities with Mediterranean, Tibetan,
and the Peninsular Indian region. For example, species of Valerians,
Dactylorhiza, Yew, and Leycesteria are typical taxa which extend
to Afghanistan and west China. Other affinities that are met
with here are in form of buckthorn (Hippophae) of palaearctic
region; Cedar trees, herbaceous Violets, and grasses such as
Poa of Mediterranean region; and spurge (Euphorbia) shrubs of
Peninsular India. In addition, GHNP has a number of endemic
species of Himalayas, for example several species of balsams
(Impatiens), species of Androsace, Hedysarum, Draba (Whitlow
grass),etc.
The indigenous culture of the mountain villages, adjacent to
the Park, also offer unique experiences for the traveler. Isolated
for centuries from the large urban centers, these remote hamlets
developed a highly distinctive culture, based on the worship
of local deities (devta) which are celebrated in numerous local,
regional and national festivals. From the characteristic architecture
of the houses and temples, and the folk wood carvings that decorate
them, to the silver jewelry and woven wool shawls and blankets,
there is a great range of local crafts to see. |
 Unexplored
Jiwanal-Parvati Trek in GHNP and crossing Pin valley national
park to enter in remote
Spiti region To blaze a new trai in search of Western
trgopan and butterfly
zone only found in GHNP park and snow leopard in pin
valley national park
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GHNP is a gift from
the people of India to the people of the world. It is
a tangible symbol of their effort to protect a dwindling
and unique environment for posterity.
One moves through many zones of the forest: from lush
lowlands up into the arid and cold higher elevations.
Nature is constantly changing and reminding you of how
life adapts at so many levels. The trek, at times, is
very strenuous. If you're going to do this one, make sure
you work out for two months in advance to get in shape.Your
breath and stamina must be strong. Trekking Phanchi Galu
is
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| hard work but the rewards
and visions will become part of your great life memories.
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The unique ecological aspects of the Western Himalaya
led to the creation of the Great Himalayan National Park
(GHNP) in the Kullu district of India's mountain state
of Himachal Pradesh. These features include biodiversity,
sparse human populations, inaccessibility, little tourism,
and a local economy based on traditional livelihoods.
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| FIRST
STAGE |
Trek
itinerary from Jiwa Nala to Parvarti River Valley |
| A seven-day, very strenuous,
dramatic hike crossing the mountain passes at Kandi Galu
(3627m), and Phangchi Galu (4636m). Incredible vistas.
Must be in excellent physical condition as very demanding
with elevation ascent of 2000 meters and 1500 meters descent
in one day (total up-down, 3,500 m in one day!). |
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Itinerary |
Day
1 : Delhi - Kullu - Tirthan Valley |
Arrive Aut
and transfer to Shoja through the scenic Tirthan valley.
A confluence of Parvati & Tirthan Rivers at Larji
offer magnificent fishing beats. After crossing a small
but busy town of Banjar, the road winds through terraced
field & fruit orchards. Streams joining the river
at Jibhi & Giyagi offer spectacular landscapes dotted
with small grain grinding huts. After Giyagi, the access
to Shoja winds through thick forests of alpine trees,
which provide an untouched Habitat to various species
of flora & fauna. On arrival at Shoja, the landscape
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| opens up into beautiful terraced
fields followed by rolling meadows of wild flowers. Enjoy
the rest of the day at leisure at the camp. One can explore
the surroundings on bear trail, pheasant ridge or village
trail |
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Day
2 : Shoja-Neuli (1650m) to Bhagi Kashahri(2600m) |
Morning visit to Manu
Temple This temple is situated to the north- east of Sainj.
It is built in pagoda style and is about 1200 years old.
The elaborate Woodcarvings on it are perhaps the best
in the valley.(2200 m). Evening at village school site.
Moderate ascent. Distance: 23 kms. |
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Day
3 : Bhagi Kashahri to Subli (3300m) |
| Strenuous ascent in early morning (3600
m). Pass through Kandi Galu notch (3627m). Distance 17 kms.
The majority of the buildings in the Ecozone of GHNP are made
of wood, stone, and mud in the traditional hill style and blend
in well with the environment. They typically have expansive
upstairs verandahs with arched facades and slate roofs. Many
also have intricate external carvings. This is one of the few
places left in the region where the majority of buildings are
made in the traditional style. |
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Day
4 : Subli to Dwada (3150m). |
| Relatively easy hike passing through birch
forests and meadows. Distance 6 kms. |
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Day
5 : Rest Day at Dwada |
| Beautiful meadow surrounded by steep mountain
valleys and flowing Jiwanal River. Peaceful and good place to
rest after long hike from Subli. |
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6 : Rest Day Dwada |
| Day hike up to Surtu
Glacial Pond in Khandedhar with dramatic mountain backdrops.
Opportunities for wildlife observation including Brown
Bear, Snow Leopard, etc. Distance: 20 kms. round trip.
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Day
7: Dwada to Chippi (3550m): |
| Very strenuous day.
Crossing Phangchi Galu Pass (4636 m) below Khandedhar
into Parvarti Valley. Continuous steep ascent over rock
scree, boulders, and very narrow paths into high alpine
meadows, then higher lichen environments. Can be cold
and windy. Descent from Phangchi Galu can have deep snow
pack and should be done with great care as steep drops
and potentially very dangerous. Sublime peace at the higher
elevations. Stressful on knees coming down! Distance:
23 kms. |
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Day
8: Chippi to Pulga: |
| Easier descent back
into forests and meadows, ending at village of Pulga.
Distance: 18 kms. |
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| SECOND
STAGE |
Crossing
the Pin Parvati Pass (5319 meters altitude) |
| Main attractions:
Village house architecture; tree deities; old Forest
Rest House at Pulga; panoramic views; alpine and
sub-alpine pastures; huge glacial structures at
Man-Talai onwards; about 7 to 8 kms. long stretch
of snow fields on the Pass; changing vegetation
and distinct bird, mammal, butterfly life.
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There
are more than 20 species of animals and birds in the
Park. This park is specially renowned for the protection
of endangered Snow-Leopard, the estimated population
of which is about twelve |
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Day
9 : Pulga (1100 m) to Barsheni (2150 m) |
| by road Trek from Barsheni to Khirganga
(2960 m) Distance: 10 kms. A busy trekking route. The
sulfur springs at Khirganga are very famous in the area.
A number of Sadhus (holy men, hermits) can be seen camping
in the vicinity of the springs. |
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Day
10 : Khirganga-Tunda Bhuj (3285 m) to Thakur Kuan |
| Trek is less disturbed,
goes through conifer forests, open meadows and birch forests.
The journey may be broken in two days, up to Tunda Bhuj
(area with high altitude birch forests) in one day and
then from there to Thakur Kuan, the next day. Distance:
19 kms |
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Day
11: Thakur Kuan to Pandupul (3700 m) to Mantalai (4200 m): |
| This part of trek is above tree line in
high altitude meadows full of medicinal herbs, alpine grasses,
bees and butterflies during summer season. It should be done
in two days: up to Pandupul in one day and next day to Mantalai.
Distance: 20 kms. |
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Day
12: Mantalai to Pin Parvati Pass (5319m) to base of the snow
field in Pin
Valley 4075 m |
This is the most strenuous
part of the Pin Parvati Pass trek. It involves a steep
ascent from Mantalai to the Pass and then a descent into
the Pin valley. About six to seven kms trek is on snow
fields filled with potentially dangerous crevices. Weather
may change any time at the Pass. Distance:
14 kms . |
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Day
13 : Pin Valley |
| Rest day at the base of Pass in Pin Valley |
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Day
14: Base of the snow field in Pin Valley to Tariya or near Mud |
| Trek through arid zone
of the cold desert in Pin Valley. The arduous part of
the trek is over, but watch out for crossing of streams
on the way. This part of trek can be done in two days
with a stopover in between. Distance: 11 kms.
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 Day
15 : Tariya/Mud to Maling road head onwards by road to Kaza
(3600 m) |
Mud is the first village
to come by. The trekker may hire a pony or one of the
famous Chamurti bred Tibetan horses to ride up to the
roadhead. Distance: 15 kms. Total Distance:
90 kms. |
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Day
16 : onward new Trails & Excursions in remote Spiti
valley |
The valley is renowned
for being Spiti's main stronghold of Nyingmapa Buddhists.
There are six monasteries in the valley and the largest
and most important gompa within the valley is the Kungri
gompa, which is 600 years old. It is located three kilometres
away from Gulling. It has some 60 resident lamas. The
inner walls are adorned with silk paintings of various
Buddhist deities. Huge statues also compliment the interiors
and there are over 300 volumes of the sacred Tibetan texts,
Kenjur and Tenjur preserved carefully in white muslin.
The ancient Tabo and Ki monasteries dating back to 1000
A.D, both built by the famous Tibetan translator, Ringchen
Zangpo should be visited.
Tabo Gompa has been selected as the place of retirement
for the current Dalai Lama, so it is one of the most important
monasteries among Tibetan Buddhists. A bus leaves Kaza
at 7 a.m. everyday and transports visitors to Tabo located
two hours away for Rs. 30/-. A taxi would cost Rs. 1,000/-.
The complex houses a choskhor (a complex of nine temples,
all built between the 10th and 16th century). The main
Tsuglhakhang assembly hall within the shrine has 33 Boddhisattva
statues and a unique four-sided statue of Sarvarvid Vairocana,
one of the five Dhyani Buddhas.
The Ki Gompa is located 14 km. from Kaza and is the oldest
and largest gompa in Spiti. It is famous for its collection
of ancient texts. It was invaded three times in the 19th
century by Ladhakis, Dogras and Sikhs, and affected by
an earthquake in 1975. No photography is permitted within
the gompa.
'Chortens' are pyramidal structures with shrines dedicated
to Guru Padmasambhava, the patron saint of Tibet. Such
chortens can be seen in many places.
Sapna Lake near Manerang Pass is a preferred tourist spot
where one can also sight several water birds.
Savour thukpa, the delicious Tibetan noodle soup! |
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Day
17 : Kaza - Manali |
| Drive from Kaza to
Manali over the Kunzum La (4550 Mts.). |
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Day
18: Manali - Nalagarh Drive from Manali to Nalagarh. |
| Upon arrival at Nalagarh, transfer
to hotel. Overnight at Hotel. |
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Day
19: Leave Delhi |
| Depart Delhi for onward
destination. |
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