Ice
Climbing
The techniques required for ice climbing shall be same as
for rock and snow climbing. The difference is only of the
field of action. Ice is as hard as any face of rock and many
methods of rock climbing can be employed to negotiate any
ice wall. This is one of the reason why most of the experienced
climbers advice that one should acquire a reasonably good
proficiency in rock climbing including the artificial climbing
before thinking of snow and ice climbing. This practice and
experience on rock is a great help in learning the ice techniques
because the process of climbing, anchoring, belaying and descending
involves the same procedure. However, holds and anchors are
not available in ice which have to be made by the climber
themselves with pistons, screws or deadman, etc.
Secondly, he has only three limbs
at his disposal instead of four on the rocks because one hand
is always occupied by the ice axe. The holds are also not
very strong and firm as on rocks. The climbing field is also
comparatively different due to severe cold, crevasses and
high altitude problems.
Ice Climbing, as the term indicates, is the activity of ascending
inclined ice formations. Usually, though, ice climbing refers
to roped and protected climbing of features such as icefalls,
frozen waterfalls, and cliffs and rock slabs covered with
ice refrozen from flows of water. Ice climbing is broadly
divided into two spheres, alpine ice and water ice. Alpine
ice is found in a mountain environment, usually requires an
approach to reach, and is often climbed in an attempt to summit
a mountain. Water ice usually found in cliff or other outcroppings
beneath water flows. Alpine ice is frozen precipitation whereas
water ice is a frozen liquid flow of water. Both types of
Ice are incredibly variable under different conditions. Ice
can be soft, hard, brittle or tough.
Ice Climbing Techniques
Depending on the slope and texture of the ice, different
equipment and techniques can be employed by the climber. For
example, on flat ice, almost any good hiking or mountaineering
boot will usually suffice, but for serious ice climbing double
plastic mountaineering boots (or their older stiff leather
equivalent) are usually used, which must be crampon compatible
and stiff enough to support the climber and maintain ankle
support. On short, low angled slopes, one can use an ice axe
to chop steps. For longer and steeper slopes or glacier travel,
crampons are mandatory for a safe climb. Vertical ice climbing
is done with crampons and ice axes (those specific to vertical
ice generally being called ice tools); the climber kicks his
legs to engage the front points of the crampons in the ice,
and then swings the axe into the ice above his head. This
technique is known as front pointing. The strength of the
ice is often surprising; even if the axe only goes in a centimeter
or so it is enough to pull up on. If the climber is leading,
he will need to place ice screws as protection on his way
up (see climbing system).Most mountaineers would only consider
the last scenario true ice climbing; the less steep variations
are routine aspects of winter mountaineering.
Some of the important techniques and practices common in rock
climbing that are employed in ice climbing include knowledge
of rope systems, tying in, belaying, leading, abseiling, and
lowering. Beginners should need to learn these techniques
before attempting to ice climb. It is highly recommended to
acquire knowledge from the experts and experienced ice climbers.
Rope Systems
Single, twin, and double rope are the three main
rope systems used in ice climbing. The single rope system,
which is suited for straight climbing routes, is the most
commonly used system in the world. Also often used in climbing
is the double rope system which is a more flexible system
than the single rope system. Lastly, the twin rope system,
which uses two twin ropes in a single rope system, is used
for longer multi-pitch routes. However, this type is not often
used in climbing.
Tying In
Tying in entails attaching your rope to the climbing
harness. This technique is a must particularly when leading
a climb or belaying. The commonly used tie-in knot is the
figure eight. Once you tie-in, you will create a belay loop
which will contain your belay device when needed. This technique
should be done properly to ensure your safety when ice climbing.
Belaying
In this climbing technique, you are going to use
either running belays or fixed belays. A running belay on
ice is similar to a running belay on rock or snow. The leader
of the climb puts protection and clips the rope through it.
The next climber puts away the protection. There should be
at least two points of protection between the leader and the
next climber. Fixed belays, on the other hand, require a belayer,
belay anchor, and points of protection. A belay anchor is
attached to a cliff in supporting a belay or toprope. In using
either a running- or fixed belay, it is necessary that you
have enough knowledge on boot/ice-screw belay techniques.
Leading
Leading refers to the act of leading a climb and
thus, requires a leader and a follower. This ice climbing
technique entails putting protection while ascending. In doing
so, leading is done in sections. The leader places the protection
as he climbs until he reaches the top. Then, as the second
climber climbs, he removes the protection placed by the leader.
When the second climber finishes, they both proceed to the
second pitch.
Abseiling
Also called rappelling, abseiling uses a fixed rope
to descend. This technique is not only used to go down after
a climb. It can also be used when trying new climbing routes
and when there is a seemingly difficult access to the start
of a climb. Careful execution is important in doing abseiling.
There are the possibilities of jammed ropes, ropes becoming
severed after getting in contact with sharp edges, and other
cases of equipment failure.
Lowering
Lowering is one of the most common methods of getting
down. A belayer at the base of the vertical wall ensures that
the climber is lowered safely. This climbing technique is
used when going down routes where there are short, steep walls.
This is also used when you want to go down faster.
These are the different techniques used in climbing activities.
Keep in mind, though, that it is very crucial to learn these
skills from expert climbers before attempting them yourself.
Protecting Ice
Compared with rock, ice can be difficult to protect. Today
the most common protection for ice climbing is an ice screw.
Ice screws are hollow tubes with sharp teeth on the front
end, a hanger eye at the back to clip into, and threading
around the tube. They are screwed into the ice and can provide
very strong protection in solid ice2. .Because of the variable
nature of ice, the strength of ice screw placements can vary
greatly.
Ice climbers also use the ice itself as protection. The two
most common of such techniques are the V-Thread and the ice
bollard. The V-thread is a method of protection in which two
tunnels are bored into the ice so that the intersect at their
ends intersect forming a "V" shaped tunnel in the
ice. A sling or cordelette (rope used in anchors) in threaded
through the tunnel and tied making a loop that is tied into
the ice. An ice bollard is a made when an horse-shoe shaped
furrow is carved into less than vertical ice with the open
end down. A lip is then sculpted in the lower wall of the
furrow so that a loop of rope can be placed in the furrow
that will stay in place in a somewhat less severeversion of
a loop of rope around saddle horn4.
Natural formations, as well as ice hooks and ice pitons are
also used as protection anchors by ice climbers.
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